“Berries over Bugs” was the headline
of a July 24th press release from The Center for Science in the Public Interest
(CSPI, a.k.a., the food police). Being a Berry, of course, I fully endorse
“choosing berries over bugs” any day! But seriously, CSPI issued this
press release a week after the closing of the 2013 Institute of Food
Technologists (IFT) Annual Meeting + Food Expo, where a whopping 97 ingredient
suppliers were listed in the directory under the “Colors, Natural” category.
But, as we all know, not all natural colors are equal.
(In case you missed my review of
innovative ingredient technologies for dairy product formulators, which
includes a section on the fact that “natural colors were the buzz” at IFT, you
can view it HERE.
Understanding
Natural Colors
(If you need a refresher course on
food color additive regulations in the States, scroll to the bottom of this
blog for “Food Colors 101.”)
In general, artificial colorings are
manufactured from petroleum-based raw materials. Colors exempt from certification,
commonly referred to as natural colors, are obtained from a variety of sources,
including plants, minerals, insects and fermentation, resources considered by
many to be natural.
It is this generalization that has
some color suppliers creating a point of differentiation by touting the fact
that their natural colors are derived solely from food, and most often,
directly from fruits and vegetables. This is because carmine--a dye extracted
from the dried, pulverized bodies of cochineal insects—is an exempt-from-certification
color and continues to be controversial in terms of its
naturalness.
CSPI’s
Latest Beef with Carmine
CSPI’s recent press release is
urging global yogurt giant Dannon to choose berries over bugs, that is, in
terms of a colorant for a number of its yogurt products. Dannon uses carmine to
give several varieties of fruit-flavored yogurt their pink color. The nonprofit
food watchdog group says that Dannon’s practice cheats consumers who might
expect that the named fruits—and not the unnamed creepy crawlies—are providing
the color. Carmine also puts some consumers at risk of serious allergic
reactions if they don’t read the ingredient statement carefully.
Strawberry, Cherry, Boysenberry and
Raspberry varieties of Dannon’s “Fruit on the Bottom” line all contain carmine,
as does the Strawberry flavor of Dannon’s Oikos brand of Greek yogurt. Two
flavors of Dannon’s Light and Fit Greek use the extract, as do six of its
Activia yogurts.
With all due respect to my fellow
food scientists at Dannon, I am sure use of carmine is under careful
consideration. After all, Dannon does use only natural colorings, such as
purple carrot juice, in its Danimals line of yogurts marketed to children.
The food police are relentless. The
chief of police, Michael Jacobson, CSPI executive director, said in the press
release, “I have nothing against people who eat insects, but when I buy
strawberry yogurt, I’m expecting yogurt and strawberries, and not red dye made
from bugs.”
CSPI is sponsoring an online
petition urging Franck Riboud, CEO of Dannon’s parent company Groupe Danone, to
replace carmine with more of the fruit advertised on the label. The petition
can be viewed HERE.
CSPI originally took interest in
carmine a number of years ago because of the fact that some consumers
experience serious allergic reactions when they consume this
exempt-from-certification colorant. In response to a CSPI petition on this
issue, the FDA now requires carmine to be listed on food labels when it is used.
Read FDA’s final rule HERE.
Previously, companies could obscure
the presence of the insect extract by labeling it “artificial color.” CSPI had
urged FDA to go further and describe carmine as “insect-derived,” making it
easier for vegetarians, those who keep kosher, or anyone otherwise averse to
eating such ingredients to avoid it.
The food police are reading the fine
print, so are many consumers. With at least 97 ingredient suppliers marketing
natural colors, consider choosing berries over bugs whenever possible.
Here are two new products that rely
only on colors derived from fruits and vegetables.
Wallaby Organic Lowfat Kefir comes
in four different flavors: Blueberry, Strawberry, Vanilla and a traditional
Plain. It comes in family-friendly, multi-serve 32-ounce plastic bottles with a
suggested retail price of $4.29. The ingredient statement of the strawberry
variety reads: Organic Cultured Pasteurized Lowfat Milk, Organic Strawberries,
Organic Cane Sugar, Natural Flavors, Organic Locust Bean Gum, Pectin, Fruit and
Vegetable Juice for Color.
New Kemps Greek Yogurt comes in four
varieties--Black Cherry, Raspberry, Strawberry and Vanilla—and is sold in
5.3-ounce cups. The ingredient statement of the Black Cherry and Strawberry
varieties indicates that vegetable juice concentrate is used for color. The
Raspberry variety gets enough color from the use of high-quality raspberries
and raspberry puree.
Food
Colors 101
The term color additive is legally
defined in Title 21, Part 70 of the Code of Federal Regulations (21 CFR 70).
Basically, any ingredient with the sole purpose of adding color to a food or
beverage is a color additive, with all color additives requiring approval by
FDA as a food additive.
In the U.S., synthetic food colors
are classified by FDA as color additives subject to certification (21 CFR 74).
They are certified with an FD&C number. This indicates that the additive
has been tested for safety and is approved for used in foods, drugs and
cosmetics, or FD&C. Seven colors were initially approved under the Pure
Food and Drug Act of 1906. Over time, several have been delisted and replaced.
Today there are still seven, which can be combined into an infinite number of
colors; hence, the seven are considered primary colors.
The seven synthetics are further
classified as standardized dyes or lakes. Dyes are a concentrated source of
color and are water soluble and oil insoluble. Lakes, on the other hand, are
made by combining dyes with salts to make them water-insoluble compounds. Thus,
they are best described as providing color by dispersion. Lakes are considered
to be more stable than dyes and are ideal for coloring products that either
contain fat or lack sufficient moisture to dissolve dyes.
FDA also provides a list of color
additives that are exempt from certification (21 CFR 73). By default, these
colors are often characterized as natural but FDA does not consider any color
added to as food unless the color is natural to the product itself. For
example, consumers expect strawberry milk to have a red hue. If strawberry
juice is added for color, and providing that none of the other ingredients in
the milk were characterized as artificial, this product could be labeled
“all-natural strawberry milk.” Such a description is not possible if beet juice,
an FDA-recognized exempt-from-certification color additive, is used for a
colorful boost. What is appropriate to say is “does not contain any artificial
colors.”
To get a full dose of Dairy market
research, go to www.berryondairy.com to
learn about new featured dairy products every day. See additional samples of
featured dairy products here.
Thanks for reading!